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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known award-winning establishments. Yet, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks a family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest restaurant earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender texture.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.